Pilgrimage to Mashhad(IRAN)
by land route
(1345 HIJRI-1926 A.D.)

Ya Imam Raza (a.s.)
Bismillah Hirrahmaan Nirraheem.
Alhamdolillahe Rabbil Aalameen Assalaato vassalaamo Ala Mohammedeen Va Aalehee Tayyebeen Attahereen.
Bombay to Mashhad
Safar Naamay
By
HAJI DAWOOD HAJI NASSER
(Formerly President, Anjumane Faize Panjetani & Anjumane Himayatul Islam)
RUBAAEE
Ay Azeezan in Sukhan Farmoodae Paigamberast,
Nooray Chashm Der Khorasan Bekaso Beyaver Ast,
Yak Tawafay Merqaday Sultan Ali Moosay Raza,
Haft Hazaaro Haft Sado Haftaad Hajje Akber ast.
Hazrat Rasoole Khuda (SAWA) has said that one Tawaaf of The Zareeh of My son Imam Ali Moose Raza will bestow the sawaab of seven thousand seven hundred & seventy-seven Hajje Akber to the Zawwar of Mashhad-e-Muqaddas.
Al Moamino Farmaataa Hai woh Saiyede Abraar
Ek Baar Ziyarat ko meri Karta Hai Zawwar
Mar Jaata Hai jab voh to main Hotaa hoon azadar
Jaata hoon Lahadme Shabe Awwalko main so Baar
Marte Hai jo Zawwar Meri raahmein Aake
Detaa hoon unhe ghusl o Kafan aap mein aake

Preface By Printer & Publisher
With Due respects to our respected brothers-in-faith this humble man Haji Gulam Ali Ismail, (Printer & Publisher) submits that by the grace of Allah Almighty and with the blessings of Hazrat Imam Raza (A.S.) Dawood Haji Nasser Haji Mavji of Bombay was fortunate to get the great benefit to present himself in the Haram Mubarak of Hazrat (A.S.) and to recite Ziyarat there. In order to commemorate the great event he has written a detailed description of his pilgrimage and named it ‘BOMBAY TO MASHHAD’. He got 1500 copies printed at my Press and gifted the same to brothers-in-faith so that it can serve as a guide for those who may intend to go for Ziyarat.
May ALLAH ALMIGHTY bestow upon this brother the best rewards in both this world and in the hereafter – Ameen

Reward of Ziyarat of Imame Raza (A.S.)
This Imam-e-gareebul guraba is our eighth Imam. Accordingly below published are eight ahadis to encourage the faithful to undertake his Ziyarat. These Ahadis have been taken from the farsi book – Tohfatur Razviyyah:--
1. Janaab Shaikh Tusi (A.M.) in “Tehzeebul Ahkaam” and Janaab Saduq in “Oyunul Akhbaare Raza (A.S.)” have narrated that Imaame Moosiye Kaazim (A.S.) said : Whoever will perform the Ziyarat of my son Ali will get the Sawaab of Seventy Haj from Allah Taala! The narrator inquired : Seventy Haj? He said “Yes” rather Seventy Thousand Haj. There are Haj Pilgrimages that are not accepted by Allah but the Haj mentioned by me are those that are accepted. Thereafter he said : Whomsoever performs the Ziyarat of my son and stays there overnight will be like the one who makes the Ziyarat of Allah on arsh. Becoming more astonished ,the narrator asked : Oh Hazrat : How is it possible to make a Ziyarat of Allah on arsh? He replied “On Qiyaamat Allah Taala will call four great men from the former and four from the latter on his Arsh; The former Four will be 1.Hazrat Nooh 2.Hazrat Ebrahim 3.Hazrat Moosa and 4.Hazrat Isa, whereas the latter four will be 1.Hazrat Mohammed (SAWA) 2.Hazrat Ali (A.S.) 3.Hazrat Hasan (A.S.) and 4.Hazrat Husain (A.S). May peace and mercy of Allah be upon all of them. A dining cloth will be spread for their feast and eatables will be put thereon. The aimma-e-Tahereen (rest of the Imams) as well as their Zawwars will also be invited there (All of them will have a feast).This is the Ziyarat of Allah. The highest in rank of all the Zawwars will be the Zawwars of Imam Raza (A.S) and they will be deserving the best of rewards.
2. It is proved by these traditions that the sawaab (reward) of Ziyarat of Imam Raza (A.S.) is more than any other Ziyarat. Specially the sawaab of Imam Husein’s (A.S.) Ziyarat is very great. About it there is a separate book “NAJAATUL KHAFEKAYAN FI ZIYARATIL HUSAIN” which contains about 300 ahaadees regarding the sawaab of Ziyarat. The details regarding the time and date etc. are also mentioned therein to such an extent that some ulemaas consider this Ziyarat Waajib (compulsory).Yet I did not find any tradition that shows any Ziyarat, Sawaab of which is like sawaab of Imam Raza (A.S.)’s. Many wise people wonder how much esteem Hazrat has before God that his zawaar’s sins will be forgiven even if they are more than all men and Jinns.(ALLAHUMMA SALLE ALAA MOHAMMED VA AALE MOHAMMED)
3. Hazrat Rasool-e-Khuda has said : Shortly one of my limbs will be buried in Khorasaan’s soil, so if any grief-stricken performs his Ziyarat Allah will relieve his grief and also forgive all his sins.
4. Hazrat Ameerul Moameneen said : one of my progeny will be martyred through persecution and poisoning on the earth of the Khorasaan. He will have my name. His father’s name will be the same as Imran’s son Moosa. Be it known that those who will go so far and perform his Ziyarat, Allah will forgive his sins gone by and those to come – be they as many in number as the stars and raindrops and the tree leaves.
5. Hazrat Imam-e-Jaafer-e-Saadiq (A.S.) said: A piece of my liver will be killed and buried at “toos” in the district of Khoraasaan. So if anyone becomes aware of his position and performs his Ziyarat will attain salvation even if he had indulged in big sins (Gunaahe Kabeerah),I will on the day of Judgement hold his hand and lead him to the heaven. Some one asked “How to attain the awareness of his position?” He replied : Know with certainty of faith that he is such an Imam whose obedience is Waajib and who was martyred while away from home.
6. The same Hazrat has said : Whoever even realises the maarefat of that Hazrat and Performs his Ziyarat ,will earn from Allah Almighty the sawaab that was bestowed upon seventy persons while fighting the holy war along with God’s Prophet (SAWA)
7. Hazrat Imam Raza (A.S) said: In my lifetime there will be a man who will kill me with poison and bury me far from my native place. So whoever will come for my Ziyarat from his far off native land, will earn from Allah Almighty the reward equal to the reward of 1,00,000 martyrs and 1,00,000 siddeeqs and 1,00,000 Haj and he will enter our group and will get admission to the high Heavenly status and be our companion in Jannat (Paradise)
8. The same Hazrat said: The area of my grave is one of the Heavenly land, so whosoever will perform my Ziyarat will get the reward of making a Ziyarat of God’s Prophet (SAWA) and he will earn the reward of performing 1,00,000 accepted Umrahs and 1,00,000 accepted Haj and my forefathers will make recommendations for his salvation (shafaat) on the day of Judgement (Qiyaamat).

JOURNEY FROM BOMBAY TO MASHHAD
“Departure from Bombay”
It was a pleasant day. It was the day of the fulfillment of months ,rather years of old earnest desire and hope. It was a memorable day of my life and it was Friday, the 18th of Moharram 1385 A.H.(corresponding to 30th July 1926).On that day I started at 8:30 PM by Gujrat Mail from Colaba Station with prayers and good wishes from my relatives and well-wishers. My Beloved destination was the holy city of Mashhad-e-Muqaddas. We were, in all, 17 persons that included my wife, my seven children aged 12 (Sakina), 11 (Zehra), 9½ (Mohammedali), 8 (Roshanali), 5 (Hyderali), 3 (Razaali), and 1 (Narjis); in addition to 5 other ladies and a female servant and a cook. We had purchased tickets for Duzdaab (Zahedan) via Ahmedabaad and Hyderabad Sind. The second class fare from Colaba to Duzdaab (Zahedan) was rupees 105-75 and for third class fare was rupees 36-00.We had reserved two compartments of seven seats each. In order to get this facility at every station of changing we had sent a telegram through the Station Master of Colaba and he gave us a copy of the same. At that time fifty inches of rain had already fallen in Bombay. It was raining throughout the night after our departure.
We reached Ahmedabad at 7:30 AM the following morning. The train for Sind Hyderabad was scheduled to start from here at 8:05 AM. We hurriedly transported our luggage engaging 2 coolies, went to the other platform and boarded the already reserved compartments in the Hyderabad bound train. We had ordered our breakfast from Bombay from a Muslim caterer who had brought Paya (Pacha), Cream, Maalpura, bread, eggs, etc. But as there was no time to take the breakfast on the station we took it into utensils and ate it in the train. One second class and one third class bogie is added to this train at Ahmedabad that takes us directly to Hyderabad. It is marked “Ahmedabad – Hyderabad”. Everyone should board this bogie otherwise one would require to change bogies at Marvad station, which is troublesome. When the train left Ahmedabad we could see continuous greenery on both sides that gave a nice cooling effect to our eyes. Now we shall see how long this green blanket spread by nature continues.
The train reached Mehsana at 9:47 AM. We took tea there as no time was available at the Ahmedabad Station.
We arrived at Aboo road station at One O’clock after noon. Here tea, bread, gravy (salun), kabaabs were available. We had it along with the food we had brought with us. Proceeding further, the train entered Marvaar junction at 5:21 in the evening. Here tea, bread etc. prepared by a muslim caterer was available. The behavior of the station master was also very nice. With a view to make advance arrangements beyond Hyderabad requested him to send a telegram and give us a copy of the same. Though this instruction was telegraphed from Colaba, we did it again to be on the safe side. As we were going for a Pilgrimage he expressed his pleasure and also hoped that we would meet him in our return journey. Here it is necessary to carry drinking water upto next afternoon as only salty water was available upto Hyderabad. Water had to be carried in mashqs. We filled 12 such jute mashqs that were with us.
We reached Luni at 8:16 in the night. Here Muslim caterer’s tea, bread and mutton were available. As we had brought our eatables and since the servant’s bogie was adjacent to our second class compartment we were preparing items like tea ourselves. After taking food we went to sleep.
We arrived at Gadraa road 5:30 A.M. on Sunday, 1st August. The station was big and the train halted for ten minutes, but neither tea nor water was available.
Thereafter we arrived at Chhor at 8:30 A.M. Here muslim caterer’s tea was available. Sometimes mutton too could be had. Water was very sweet but I do not know if it’s quality was good too. Here I recollect that the green carpet of nature had disappeared. Instead a white carpet of sand was spread. There was no sign of any vegetation except scantily scattered trees like babool or aak. Mountains were also of sand. Our cook had prepared breakfast of tea, bread, omelet etc. From here to Duzdaab (Zahedan) we were cooking our food in the train as we had brought stoves and eatables etc. with us.
Finally we reached Meerpur Khaas at 10:45 A.M. Tea, bread, mutton, fruit etc. was available at this station. Many Sindhi gentlemen were seen here. The civil Hospital is near the station. The place is large and beautiful. Proceeding further we could see a number of canals and their branches. Even in the midst of the sandy land we can observe fields and gardens. Is there anything that this black headed man cannot do with the resources and means provided by nature? The prosperity of Punjab and Sind has thus been very much increased with the help of these canals that have turned millions hectares of desert lands into fertile fields. We saw such canals almost everywhere. Today a lot of dust is blowing on the way since morning. Hence it will be better to wear green glass spectacles. It will also prove useful during the car journey from Duzdaab (Zahedan) to Mashhad
At last we arrived at Hyderabad (Sind) at 12:30 in the afternoon. Here we had one and a half hour at our disposal since the Quetta bound train coming from Karachi was to leave this station at 2:19 PM. A little distance from here is the holy place where the footprints of Hazrat Ali (A.S.) have been imprinted. We wanted to visit that place but since we had no time we decided to put it off till we returned from Mashhad. Fifteen minutes were spent in alighting and keeping our luggage aside. We had no difficulty as the Quetta mail was to arrive at the same platform. We accommodated ladies and children by taking them across the over bridge to the ladies waiting room. Thereafter we went to a small refreshment room of Muslim caterer on the station to dine. Immediately after alighting we inquired about our reservation of our accommodation from Karachi but the station master had informed us that on that day army had demanded 2-3 bogies. Yet they had arranged for us a complete small bogie having two five seat compartments on both the sides plus a servants’ compartment in the middle. The availability of the said special bogie had helped us in our onward journey as it had enabled us to cook the said vegetables (which we purchased from Ahmedabad) on our primus stoves. Thus besides getting hot dishes, we did not have to depend on the low quality market food. Before the departure of the train we again requested the station master to get our seats reserved from Spezand (near Quetta) through a telegram. We started at 2:30 PM. The train that was running at the speed of 30 miles per hour on the narrow gauge between Ahmedabad and Hyderabad, was now running at the speed of 40-45 mph on the broad gauge line. It was speeding on the plains as if it had realized our infelt desires to reach our destination as soon as possible. The temperature was cool ever since we left Bombay and we thought it would continue but now contrary to our expectations, it was getting warmer. The temperature at Bombay was 80-85’F when we left. Here it was 95’ Fahrenheit.
When we reached Shahdadpur at 4 O’clock the temperature was 100’Fahrenheit. Tea was available here.
We reached Rohri junction at 8:10 at night. It is a big city and there is a lot of din and rush here. Here on the platform tea, bread was being sold as well as hot salun, kabab, seekh prepared before our eyes. It is like a reversing station. The train pushed forward in another direction with the engine at the rear.
At 8:50 PM we arrived at Sakker, barrage of which is well known for big canal projects. This city is situated on the bank of the famous Indus river. Here the railway bridge is worth seeing. We ate wheat and bajra chapati with salun (gravy), thanking ALLAH. It was still very hot. When I saw the barometer the mercury stood at 96’ Fahrenheit though the electric fans were on.
We reached Sibi that is in Baluchistan at 4 AM where we were fast asleep. The Baluchistan authorities check passports at this place. They do not wake second class passengers but they awake third class travellers. The passport officials who embark here remain here till the border of Baluchistan. So far in Sind the land was 2000-4000 feet above sea level. Hereforth the train began to climb up the mountains. Sibi is situated 433 feet above sea level. We had already passed through 10 to 15 tunnels before we woke up at 5:30 in the morning. Our train was climbing between the mountains. It was noteworthy that whereas the hills on the way to Poona remains green even in hot seasons (due to the trees), the hills and vales here were barren and desolate. There was no sign of vegetation. On inquiring we found out that there is rainfall of hardly 1 to 2 inches in a year.
At 6:17 A.M. we reached Aab-e-Goom, which is 2157 feet above sea level. Temperature was 82’ Fahrenheit. Air was very pleasant. Only water was available here. Two engines, one in front and one at the back, are joined to the train here, the train climbs above. We passed through tunnels every now and then.
We reached Mach at seven in the morning. It is at a height of 3246 feet above sea level. Temperature is 84’ Fahrenheit. Here we get biscuits, tea, etc. for break-fast. Water here is cold, sweet and tasty. It is recommended that water should be filled here in ample quantity. Baluchi people are seen at stations and on the way.
The train arrived at Spezand at 9:51 in the morning. It then proceeds to Quetta. The trains bound for Duzdaab (now known as Zahedan) take another route from here. The train for Duzdaab (Zahedan) leaves here twice a week i.e. on Mondays and Thursdays. Spezand is at a distance of 16 miles from Quetta. The train that leaves Quetta at 8 A.M. reaches here at 9:44 A.M. and leaves from here at 10:14. We had left Bombay in such a way that we arrive here at 9:51 A.M. and got into the waiting train that had come from Quetta and was going to Duzdaab (Zahedan). Thus we were spared the trouble of going to Quetta and the extra expense. Our separate compartment was detached from the Hyderabad train and was attached to the Duzdaab (Zahedan) train. In that way we also saved the trouble of getting in and out of the train with all our luggage again. It may be remembered that Spezand is merely a transfer station; nothing is available here; not even water. There is no platform on this station. There is a shortage of coolies. Enough food should be carried to last until reaching Duzdaab (Zahedan) as there is no guarantee of getting it on the way. We had, before leaving Bombay, sent a telegram through Faiz-e-Panjetani to arrange for food from Quetta to Spezand. Their representative had come with biryaani, chicken, chapati (bread) and fruits. We paid the bill of rupees nineteen and six annas. I empathetically advise every brother who wishes to go to Mashhad-e-Muqaddas that instead of going to Quetta, he should get transferred from Spezand but he should arrange the time of his departure from Bombay according to railway schedule explained earlier. Spezand is 5858 feet above sea level. That is, if we consider the Rajabai Tower of Bombay (Bombay University) to be 200 feet high, we were at a height equal to 30 times of Rajabai Tower. The climate is very dry. There is no sign of any greenery. In the mornings the temperature is 86’ Fahrenheit. It should be remembered that after Sibi tea is not available at any station because very few people drink tea in this area. Moreover on every station one or two soldiers with open bayonets are on guard as the stations are in desolate places and the construction is such that if robbers etc. enter the only iron gate is closed. The walls have holes on every side so that the guns can be used safely from within. As there is an acute shortage of water upto Duzdaab (Zahedan), I strongly recommend that enough quantity of water should be taken from whichever station available. Passports of second class passengers are checked here. The passport officer also travels in the train. He makes the necessary entries and returns these after two or three stations. A few police officers remain in the train upto Duzdaab (Zahedan). Henceforth the train starts descending.
We reached Mastung Road Station at 12:30 afternoon. Water is available here and sometimes also some fruits. It is at the height of 5409 feet. The temperature is 90’ Fahrenheit.
We reached Shaikh Wasil at 12:30 afternoon. Water is available here and sometimes mutton and chapati. The height is 5128 feet and the temperature is 90’ Fahrenheit. The train then stops at several wayside stations that don’t have even water.
We reached Nushki at 3:49 PM. The height is 3341 feet above sea level. Before arriving here the train starts descending. This scene is worth seeing. A lot of dust rises in all directions. Water is somewhat tasteless.
We reached Ahmedvaal at 4:33. This is a big station. It is at a height of 2930 feet. The temperature here is 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Water is available here. Watermelons (Hindwanay) are found scarcely.
We reached another station of Daalbadeen at 10:18 PM. There was a lot of rush here. The Balochi people were loitering aimlessly in big numbers. When we asked the reason for this to the police officer, he said that the train comes on this side only twice a week. The Duzdaab (Zahedan) bound train arrives here after midnight. So for curiosity people loiter here on the pretense of a walk. Here our passports are checked again. The passport officer who saw that a number of women and children are with me, advised me to take enough water to last me till the train reached the Meerjava station at 12 noon next day. The place is 2786 feet above sea level. The temperature stood at 95’ Fahrenheit even in the middle of the night.
The next day, that is on 3/8/1926 we reached a small station of Kooh-e-taaftoon at 11 O’clock. Here airplanes were seen flying in the British territory. As soon as our train arrived here, the planes took two rounds over our train before landing.
Thereafter the train proceeded further and reached Meerjava at 11:50. Iranian territory begins from here. Near the station there was an Iranian military camp. Iranian soldiers and officers had arrived at the station in big numbers. The Iranian Governor of Duzdaab (Zahedan) had entered the same train from here. Therefore there was much movement. All our passports were taken by the Iranian Authorities here. We got them back after reaching Duzdaab (Zahedan). Meerjava is at a height of 2759 feet above sea level. The temperature at noon was about 95’ Fahrenheit. After a salute was given to the Governor of Duzdaab (Zahedan) the train advanced in Iranian territory. From here again it was an upward journey. Travelling at an average speed of 12 miles per hour we came to the last stage of our train journey, i.e. Duzdaab (Zahedan) at 4:30 in the evening. It is at 4531 feet above sea level. Mostly Iranians are seen at the station. Personnel of Faiz-e-Rizviyah had come to the station to receive us. Luggage etc. was carried to the opposite side for customs. Baggage is checked and custom duty levied on dutiable goods and the receipt is handed over then and there. Since we are many our luggage was also large. As it was not easy to carry all of it to the custom house the officer was kind enough to come to us himself for checking. He asked us to open only five to seven out of thirty packages for satisfaction. He then passed all of it. Then we went to the town that is about 1 ¼ mile away in motorcars with our luggage and stayed at the Razaviyyah Musafirkhana that was founded by Haji Meheraali Vishram of Zanzibar. One of the trustees Mr. Mirza Abdulla Panjabi had come to receive us at the railway station. With the view to build the said Musafirkhana Haji Meherali had established Faiz-e-Rizviyyah of which now the main person is the said Mr. Panjabi. The Musafirkhana has a wide area in the front part of the town. When we camped there, a mujtahid was occupying one of the rooms. He was going towards India after performing Ziyarat of Mashhad-e-Muqqaddas. In another room was Syed Jallaluddin Hyder, a professor in Lahore’s chief college. He was also proceeding towards Mashhad. At present there is a facility of one-two rooms accommodation that could serve in all, four to five families. The construction work was still progressing. The work of Masjid and Imambada (Huseiniyyah) will start soon, we were so informed. Though we heard that due to the funds having finished it would be completed after funds were provided from Delhi, Lahore etc. Now the main people who take advantage of this musafirkhana are Khojas and other Indians. Though it has been mentioned in the Trust Deed by Haji Meherali that preferance should be given to Khojas, as the number of Hindustani Zawwars is very big and the management is in the hands of Panjabi, I am afraid, there is bound to be confusion in future. Therefore it is imperative to amend promptly the constitution. One time food was given to us by Faiz-e-Panjetani of Bombay at night. The same night we went in search of motorcars with Abdullahjan. Next morning we engaged a dodge lorry and a hup-mobliecar at the rate of Rs. 1136. For our twelve and a half tickets the average came to Rs. 91. It is hereby recommended that while hiring cars, instead of relying on others one should personally inquire at four to five places in town. We decided to start the car journey next day, i.e. on Thursday. In Iran there is no bathing facilities in homes. The tradition is to use hamaamkhanas. In this little town there are two hamaams. As five-six days had passed since we left Bombay we had to resort to hamaamkhanas. The hamaamkhana for women remains open for two days of the week but as it was under repair, and hence closed, we arranged for the other one for the ladies. We paid the double rate, that is, 2 Karans per person. We went in the evening to the garden. The sun here sets an hour and a half later than in Bombay. When we were in the garden, there were in all twelve persons with us, including Zanzibarwalla Mr. Rashid Natha and his sons who had returned that very day from Ziyarat of Mashhad-e-Muqaddas, as well as Daresalamwalla Mr. Daya Valji etc. After taking our dinner we arranged Majlis wherein Syed Jalaaludin Sahib delivered effective Vaez. Here the maximum temperature was 95’ Fahrenheit and the minimum was 85’ Fahrenheit. Here there is a branch of the Imperial Bank of Persia. We must exchange all our money into Karans here, rather it is better to exchange the entire money required for the return journey from Mashhad, in case you desire to return from here, the reason for this suggestion is that in Mashhad we have to suffer 5-7% in exchange. There is also the office of the British Consul here. They are always ready to assist the Indian Citizen. So, if you face any difficulty or if you require any advice you must visit this Consulate.
After taking a two day rest, we arranged for our onward journey to Mashhad-e-Muqadas. We had two motorcars for us and two for the other Zawwars. Mainly two things are essential for this journey. Waterbag (Mashq) and food stuffs. It is very necessary for everyone to keep two waterbags. Waterbags made of jute (kantaan) are available in Bombay. These should be purchased 4-5 days before leaving Bombay and tested by filling water in them. Bags with leaks become useless during the journey causing problems. While starting the journey enough food to last 24 hours should be carried.
Our car journey started at 6 P.M. on Thursday 5/8/1926 (three hours before sunset). There were potholes on the road and the road surface was peeled off at various places causing jerks. The speed was hardly over 10-15 miles per hour. At the time of Maghrib the headlight of one car was out of order and it took one and a half hour to repair it.
At last, after travelling 37 miles, we arrived at Hurmuk at 11:30 at night. After taking dinner from the food we had carried with us, we slept. Next morning, we filled enough water because it was not available for the next 60 to 70 miles. Zawwars should take sufficient water from here. Therefrom we started in the dark at 6 AM. on Friday and entered the waterless area. There we found some water pits. There was no vegetation at all. Looking far in every direction we could only see the horizon. Though mountains were faintly visible far away we saw hundreds of carcasses of animals that must have died for want of water. Yet, by the grace of Allah, we did not hear any such case of human beings. There was a continuos movement of cars. So if a car experiences water shortage, others help, rather they assist one another in every way. Unfortunately one of our cars suffered a puncture wasting about 45 minutes.
At last, at 11 O’clock our cars went past Maki Surkh which is at a distance of 50 miles from Hurmuk. Here there was nothing except a post and two or three vacant houses for travellers. Water was not available here, so we did not wait here.
We arrived at Khuneek village at 5 in the evening. Saltish water is available here. Sometimes sweet water is also brought here from a distance but it is very costly. On the way we rested wherever musafirkhanas existed. Where they were not available, the poor inhabitants gave their houses and also brought us whatever we needed. Since we were unaware of this, the car driver made arrangements for us. One of the car drivers, Mohammed Ali was the most well known, experienced and efficient driver on this Duzdaab (Zahedan) Mashhad road. So we had nothing to worry about. For tea we went to an Iranian’s house in the village. After having tea that he prepared for us, we offered our namaz and restarted the journey. It should be remembered that after entering Iran, restaurants and homes supply only milkless tea. A cup of tea costs one and a half Sanaar (three quarters of an anna). We paid six Karans for boarding-lodging. Those who are fond of milk tea should keep with them condensed milk tins because milk may not be available at odd hours on the way. Explanation of local coins and currency notes has been given in the forthcoming pages. After passing through rough roads and dry lands for quite some time, we started to see scattered green patches and good roads.
After travelling 27 miles we reached a green village named Sushp at 7:30 P.M. An Iranian entrusted us his house. Some people live on this business. They give every facility to the travellers and remain content with whatever they are given. Their women folk also assist the travellers in every chore. The home which we had expected to engage was taken up by an army camp recently. A stream was flowing from the square (at the center) of the house. So we had to resort to another one. There we ordered bread, eggs, chicken etc. and went to sleep. If we request, they also cook for us. Six chicken cost nearly Rs. 3. After taking our breakfast, we took our lunch with us and restarted at 7 A.M. on Saturday, 7/8/1926. It would be prudent to take our lunch from the place where we have spent the night because it is not advisable to waste time of the motorcar for buying or cooking things on the way. At least 2 or 3 hours are therefore saved. Now there was less heat. The temperature in the morning was 68-70’ Fahrenheit. Now cool and pleasant wind blew and we came across small canals at small distances. So upto our next stop we only took adequate water. After a further journey on 60 miles we reached Sardbisha at 11:45 AM. This small beautiful village is situated in the valley. All houses being earthen were not recognizable from a distance, because they were the color of the mountain. It is always very cool now. The barometer indicated 77’ Fahrenheit. As there was still time for the noon meal we did not stay here but proceeded further. At the end of the village road an arch of Iranian carpets were erected because Iran’s famous ruler Reza Shah was to come here. Henceforth we could see scattered habitats on our way. At various places shepherds were seen with their flocks of grazing sheep and goat. At one spot we purchased a jug full of fresh goat milk and curd. About 15 miles further we arrived at Mood, a little beautiful village, at 1:30 PM. We stayed near that village at a spot full of natural scenes. Beneath the shade of tall trees, by the side of a cold water stream, we selected our resting place. The water of this stream was so cold that even at midday it was not possible to stand bare-footed for a minute. The ice cold water was also very tasty. We heated the food which we had taken with us in the morning and ate it after offering namaz. We also took the fresh milk purchased on the way. Indeed, I have no words to describe the impression which these natural scenery have left on my mind. It needs the efficiency of a learned writer or an expert painter. We left this wonderfully attractive place at 3 O’ clock in the afternoon. After travelling another 25 miles we arrived at Birjand at 4:30 PM. This town is halfway between Duzdaab (Zahedan) and Mashhad. We had travelled three hundred miles and half the journey remained. This city is on both the banks of a dried up river and is populated. We camped in a caravan Serai. There are many hamaamkhanas in this town. There is also a branch of the Imperial Bank of Persia, and also the British Consulate. Everything was available here. We bought our necessities and cooked our dinner. As per local currency eggs are available at a dozen per one anna of India. On Sunday 8/8/1926 at 7:30 in the morning we took our breakfast, carried our noon food and restarted our journey. We were continuously climbing up and descending down the hills for about 40 miles. Thereafter came a plain road. After travelling about 62 miles we came to Koen and camped by the side of a small stream. However this place was not as beautiful as Mood. We ate, offered namaz and proceeded further. Again the roads were very rough and full of pits. Another 40 miles and we reached Khizri which we passed at 4:15 PM. Again the rough roads created a problem and while coming down a hilly area we escaped a serious accident due to the sadaqa of Imam Raza (A.S.). The spot was so steep that utmost care was needed even for one walking on foot. Both of our car brakes had failed before this downhill journey started so the drivers were unable to halt the vehicles. He gave a hint, so two persons jumped off a running lorry, picked up a big stone and put it before our vehicle but the car crossed over it. We were frightened but naturally the cars speed slowed down. So, at once, the driver turned it towards a hill on the left and halted because there was a pit on the right side of the road. All of us got down, walked a little and when the cars were repaired we resumed our journey.
After travelling another forty-two miles we arrived at the big village of Gunaabaad at 6:30 PM. As sunset time was 8:30, we got down near a big Hauz (from a running water stream) and took rest for half an hour then proceeded further. Now it was sandy land, but fortunately the ground was somewhat hard. We were caught in dust storm before Maghrib. The wind was so strong that breathing too had become difficult and the speed of our car was also effected. The blowing of dust was so severe that pebbles striking our car were creating the noise of a heavy rainfall. It was so dark that the ground was not visible even from a distance of fifteen yards. This lasted for about an hour. Journeying further for approximately 60 miles, we arrived at Meena at 9:30 in the night. We lodged at an Iranian’s house by the side of a canal. Here we called for things that were required, cooked, ate and slept. Next morning, Monday, 9/8/1926 we had our breakfast at 6:00 AM. and proceeded further. We were charged 2 Karans (8 annas) for staying there overnight. From here on we saw a lot of populated places. As advised by our driver we did not take eatables with us because at the next stop of Turbat-e-Hyderi there were many restaurants which provide all kinds of food. The condition of the road had also improved. After travelling further 35 miles we reached Turbat-e-Hyderi at 8:30 AM. This town was newly built. At a distance of about 10 miles from here, the damaged houses and the debris of the earthquake of 1923 gave us the idea of destruction. This is a large town where everything is available. We called for paayaa (pacha), seekh kabaab, bread etc. fresh from a restaurant and ate. At 10 O’clock we went on further through the ups and downs of hilly terrain. After 67 miles we reached Rubaad-e-Safed, a small village at 1:30 PM. where we took food brought by us and took tea.
Alhamdulillah, we reached MASHHAD-E-MUQADDAS at 4:30 P.M. The golden dome of the MAUSOLEUM is visible from a distance of about 5 to 7 miles from the holy city. It shone gloriously in the rays of the sun. All of us saw this wonderful scene. We prayed durood and salaam to the Mausoleum. Our happiness knew no bounds. The great urge to reach there and to recite Ziyarat, we felt a minute like an hour even though the cars were at full speed. Finally after reaching at 4:30 P.M. we took bath in hamaams, recited salawaat and bowed our heads in the Haram Mubarak. We thanked the Paak Parvardigaar with whose grace we, without any trouble, started from Bombay, travelled for 9 days and 20 hours and reached Mashhad-e-Muqaddas on the tenth day. While leaving Duzdaab (Zahedan) we had sent a telegram to our Muzavir at Mashhad, Janab Syed Mohammed Kazim Lung (whose telegraphic address is “lung”). So he had come to receive us about 2-3 miles away from the city. He gave us accommodation in his nice house in the holy city. He is a very good and gentle man. No words can praise him adequately. He was always on his feet along with his brothers to serve the ‘Zawwars’. He always thought for the comfort of the Zawwars. He assisted us in buying and recommended the cheapest shops for purchasing articles of necessity. He advises the shopkeepers to satisfy the Zawwars and even enters into arguments with them on our behalf. Each and every Zawwar praised him. While writing about Mashhad-e-Muqaddas’ mausoleum the first priority has been given to the Haram Mubarak of Imam Ali Musaa Raza (A.S.). I will never forget the memorable day of 9/8/1926, when I saw this holy place for the first time. Immediately after entering the Sahn, beautiful scenes greeted us from all directions. The scene of the Sahn and the Haram Mubarak looked like Paradise on earth. They occupied a very large space. It was not yet evening when we reached there. The Namaz of Zohar and Asr were being offered. On the other side different maulavis were giving Vaez at three or four places. Some people were engrossed in namaz, some in duaas, some in reciting Ziyarat and some in reading the Quran. We entered the Courtyard (Sahn) from the Goharshaad Masjid. There are three courtyards of the Goharshaad Masjid. The Courtyard built by Fatehali Shah is known as the new Sahn. All the three Sahns are around the Haram Mubarak. The combined number of doors to these Sahns are fifteen. The Sahns are so vast that, in my opinion, more than 50,000 people could be accommodated.

MASJID-E-GOHARSHAAD AND IT’S SAHN
This Masjid and its Sahn, adjacent to the Haram-Mubarak of Imam Raza (A.S.) was built by a lady named Goharshaad about 700 years ago. As she did not have any children, she had kept a Mannat of building a Sahn here. By the Sadaqaa of the Imam she got a son but he was blind. So being disappointed, she did another Mannat whereby the grace of Allah his eyes became all right and he could see.
Mostly Namaz and majalis are being recited in this Masjid and its Sahn. Passing through this Sahn we came to the Haram-Mubarak of the Hazrat. The first big portal for entrance is made of silver. There are 10 such silver portals around the Haram. After the entrance there is a big hall (Aivaan). Ziyarat is recited here. Around the Zari Mubarak (Wherein lies the MARQAD OF HAZRAT) there are 10 such grand halls. After reciting Ziyarat we can go to another hall. Its door is made of silver but the portion upto four feet on two sides of the door and about 10 feet above is gold plated. There is precious gold and diamond work around the Zari Mubarak. On 2 sides above the Qabr-e-Mubarak there are 2 jewel studded-golden crowns. Afterwards we enter the hall where there is Zari Mubarak at the two ends of which there are two big portals of gold. There is a two and a half feet bowl full of diamonds and other jewels. There is also a glass encasement on the wall towards the Imam’s head which contains jewellery estimated worth over 10 lack rupees. The scene of the Zari Mubarak is very solemn. It was heart rendering. There are a lot of engravings on the walls and ceilings of the halls. Glass work worth lacks of rupees covers them. There is gold work on the walls around the silver door of the old Sahn. It is about 30 feet wide and approximately 45 feet high. This has been done by Iran’s famous emperor Nadeershah. Moreover, a stream is flowing in the midst of this Sahn and there are five hauzes (tanks) too. All this is provided by Shah Abbas. There is, in the middle of the Sahn, a sabeel made of stone having a golden Gumbaz (dome) thereon built by an anonymous doner (Ummeedvaar). Like the old Sahn, there is a gold plated wall around the silver door of the new Sahn also. It is built by Iran’s Shahenshah Fatehalishah. Above the mausoleum is a very large Golden Dome. It’s circumference is about 50 feet and its height, from the over head terrace, is about 75 feet. It is visible from a distance of several miles. This dome has been made with additions and alterations by emperor Shah Abbas. This Shahenshah was very fond of Ziyarat, having come to Mashhad thrice. On the last occasion, that is Hijri 1010, when Isfahaan was the capital of Iran, he had, for the sake of reverence, walked all the twelve hundred miles from there and back. This was due to respect for the Imam. During this journey he was building caravans and solid roads on every halt. Moreover, he had stayed in the Haram Mubarak as a khaadim (servant) for some time. There is a hall (aywaan) around the Mausoleum of the Imam. It is said that in about 1000 Hijri Iran’s King Shah Abbas gifted his sword to a blind fakir (beggar) named Alavardikhan. The Fakir did not know that the donor was the king, moved his hand over the sword and having appreciated the precious engraving said “You seem to have stolen this sword with other valuables from the King’s treasury and now you are handing it over to me to implicate me in the theft, so I will not accept it. Observing the cleverness of the blind fakir, the King asked him as to how long he has been begging at the Grave. He replied that it was since the last 20 years. The King said “How is it that even though you are begging near this grave for 20 years your eyesight has not been restored? Now I am going inside the tomb and returning after reciting Ziyarat. If your eyes do not become all right by that time, this sword will divide you into two parts, which will be hung on both sides of the door.” The fakir became frightened and began to cry at the Zarih and prayed. With the barkat of Hazrat and the power of Almighty Allah, he got his sight back (Salawaat). When the King came out he saw that the fakir’s eyes could see, so he became very glad and offered him a big prize. Thereafter the said Alavardikhan became a big businessman, amassed a lot of wealth and built a big hall near the Haram Mubarak. He also kept some place for his own burial, so after his demise he has been buried there. There are over 1500 khuddam (servants) for the entire Haram. They, by turn, sweep the Sahn, clean it, recite the Holy Quran and perform various other duties.
Every new Zawwar is being hosted for one meal on behalf of Hazrat, i.e. one time food is being given free to them. The annual income of the Hazrat Haram Mubarak, accruing from properties etc. was about one and a half lack Tomans which is equivalent to about four and a half lack rupees. It is spent for employees and other works of the mausoleum as well as for religious education and a hospital. There is a committee for its management. The chief authority is every Shah ascending the throne of Iran. The employees get annually about 10,000 Tomans (Rs. 35,000). Moreover, the Shah sends his representative from Tehran for management work. The mausoleum Mubarak opens one hour before the Azaan for Namaz-e-Fajr. It closes at 10 O’clock in the night. It remains open throughout the night on Thursdays and other important days. 3-4 Jamaat Namaz are held in the morning. Various maulvis discuss different religious problems (masaail) over there. After midday upto Asr time, intermittent Jamaat Namaz are held by different Pesh-Imams so that all people may be able to join in at the time of their convenience. Before Maghrib, Majalis and Masaails are being preached from different Mimbers (Pulpits). As people become free from their occupations at this hour, there is a huge mass gathering and the place is full. Immediately after Azaan-e-Maghrib, 8-10 Jamaat Namaz are held within the mausoleum and Masjid-e-Goharshaad. Women also pray with veils in the last line (Saff). They also sit in large numbers to hear Majalis and Masaail. Electric lights are on in the Haram at night. Its generator has been gifted by the mother of Agakhan. On every Thursday, the army men residing in the nearby camp come from their barracks with full military grandeur at 3:00 P.M., from various routes to perform Ziyarat. They line up in the Sahn and offer salute. One of the khuddam climbs up a mimbar (pulpit) and recites the Ziyarat for the army men. Thereafter, the men bow towards the Qabr-e-Mubarak and depart. The Chehloom day of Imam Husain (A.S.) is observed very solemnly and serenely here. Even more solemnly is the observance of Imam Raza (A.S.)’s day of death (Wafaat). It is on the 29th of Safar. Thousands of people gather in the vast old Sahn on that night. All doors are closed at 9 P.M. sharp to avoid crowding and chaos. After about 30 minutes the Mulla recites again from the high Minaret. Inspite of its height the silence below makes the voice of the Mulla audible. Then all around the Sahn, the Khuddam stand in Saffs (lines). Other Khuddam stand at a distance of about 50 feet facing the former ones. This makes a 50 feet wide path around the Sahn. About 150 Khuddam stand in the middle. There are in all 1500 Khuddam. Instantly getting a signal, they light a wax candle which is with them. It looks like hundreds of bulbs lit on simultaneously like an electric switch. Immediately thereafter those 150 khuddam who were in the middle, with lighted candles in hand, simultaneously recite Nauhaas in Farsi and Turkish language and move around between aforesaid two lines facing each other. They make three rounds. This scene is indeed worth seeing. We seldom in life get a chance to see such an incident. Then, after Majalis thousands of men and women disperse for their homes with a deep impression on their minds and hearts. A similar gathering is held on the date of Imam Raza (A.S.) date of birth which is celebrated by the people of Khuraasan on the 13th of Zilkad. Another observance is held on the night of Ashura (10th Moharram). Therefore I strongly recommend that the Zawwars should try their best to make benefit of any of the said days.
An Iranian poet has rightly said about the Goharshaad Masjid:
BEHISHTE ROOE ZAMEEN MASJIDE GOHARSHAAD AST
BAY HAR KUJAA KI NAZAR MEE KUNAM DARI BAAZ AST
Meaning: The heaven on the surface of the earth is Masjid-e-Goharshaad because wherever I see the doors of Allah’s mercy are wide open.

CITY OF MASHHAD
There is a time difference of 2½ hours between Bombay and Mashhad. Therefore when it is noon in Mashhad, it is 9:30 A.M. in Bombay. Here Arabic time is in Vogue. That means when it is 6 P.M. it is 12 here. Thus, there is a difference of six hours. Just as English day begins after 12 midnight, here as per Islamic rules, the old day ends and a new day begins at 6 P.M. In the month of August the sun rises at 8 A.M. and sets at 6 P.M. It is not so hot in summer. August is the hottest month. The maximum temperature is 100’ Fahrenheit. We felt that the weather was very pleasant then. Snowfall begins from November and starts melting from March. The cold becomes less from April Zawwars are recommended to visit thereafter. They may return before November since it is very cold then. The most suitable time to visit Khurasaan is July, August or September which is considered a hot season there yet for us it is cool. A lot of fruits grow in this season and are very cheap. The cold from December to April is unbearably severe.
On three sides of the Mausoleum are bazaars. The merchants have shops and residences here. In one line there are restaurants, butcher’s shops, fruit sellers,cloth shops etc. The bread shops and eating houses are separate. A variety of meat dishes are available. On Fridays the bazaars and banks are closed.
Iranian currency is Tumaan, one Tumaan is ten Karaans. One Karaan is ten Annar and one Annar is two Shaahi. At present, hundred rupees are equivalent to 400 Karaans. Annar and Shaahi are like nickel. Four Karaans is about one Indian rupee. Karaan is made of silver and resembles our eight anna coin. Tumaan had no coins, only paper notes of one, two, five, ten, twenty, fifty and hundred. The latter are different in different towns. The town’s name is imprinted on each note. From town to town the notes pertaining to other places have to be exchanged, the currency notes are issued by a British bank namely Imperial Bank of Persia, which is surprising. Houses are mostly of earthen bricks. In the middle of the houses on the ground floor there are squares. In the center of the squares is a Huaz. The narrow streets are of stone. The Municipality is responsible for cleanliness of the streets and houses as also general improvements. New houses are at a distance from one another allowing streets to become broader. Private carriers bring water from nearby spring outside the town and levy charges from each house according to area. Water for domestic use is from bore wells.
Bombay has one horse drawn Victoria carriages. Here the carriages are slightly bigger and are drawn from a pair of horses. There are about 100 such vehicles. These were used to go for sight-seeing. For a 2 mile journey the rate is 2 Karans (i.e. eight annas of India). The travellers are either all male or all female, howsoever closely related they are. Unlike India the driving is on the right side.
In August there are fruits like grapes, peaches, shetoots, apricots, watermelons and melons. They are very luscious, fresh and cheap and are brought daily from the nearby gardens. The sweetness and taste of Iranian fruits cannot be compared with anywhere else in the world. To give an idea to the readers given below are the rates of different fruits. Here one Mun (maund) is of 40 seers of less weight. About 6 seers make a pound. This means 1 mound of this place is equal to about quarter mound of Indian.
Watermelons, grapes and apples cost one Karaan i.e. ¾ anna per one pound. Peaches and dudhi costs 2.5 Karaans i.e. 1 & ½ anna.
There are 8-10 qualities of grapes. The white kismis are long and round, the black and red are very sweet. Grapes are so cheap and even beggars and labourers could eat them to their hearts content. Daily thousands of Muns of grapes are sold. Peaches are also very sweet, tasty and cheap. One piece is bigger than our sweetlime (mosambi). They are so soft that they melt in our mouth. If we put it in our mouth it can be swallowed without chewing. Good quality peaches cost only 6 annas per dozen whereas such fruits would not even available in Bombay for rupees five. Apples are equally sweet and tasty. We once purchased 28 pieces for 4.5 annas. Melons and watermelons were sold by weight. These are very sweet and cheap. In short fruits are very cheap, tasty but newcomers may eat less to start with otherwise there is a fear of loose motions. They may eat as required after about a week.
There are 2 gardens in Mashhad. The big one is Baag-e-Milli. Many tress are planted therein and many benches are provided for sitting. Moreover, there is a refreshment stall. Tea, falooda and many kinds of sharbat (sweet drinks) are available here. People come here in big numbers for a walk. This garden is situated near Arak. The other garden is called Baagh-e-Naadiri. The famous emperor Nadir Shah, who had invaded India is buried in this garden.
There are many small gardens on the outskirts of Mashhad. Big red roses grow there. Their fragnance is very pleasant. Both rich and poor of the city are very fond of keeping roses with them.
Good quality grains like wheat, rice, moong, masoor, gram,vaal etc. can be had here cheaper than in India. Rice is small and of a very high quality, even better than Delhi’s high quality Basmati rice. It expands a lot after cooking. I have not seen such good quality rice in India. This rice comes from Resht province. People do not eat Bajra (Millet) here. Flour of wheat, rice and gram is also here.
Vegetables like brinjal, ladies finger, potato, onions, tomatoes, suvaa and methi are available here. These are fresh tasty and cheap. Sour lime is not available here.
Mail for India and other countries close twice a week on Saturday and Wednesday at one in the afternoon. Letters from Bombay take 25-28 days to reach here. They have to be sent 1731 miles by rail from Bombay to Duzdaab. 325 miles on camel from Duzdaab to Birjand, 144 miles on horseback from Birjand to Gunabaad and 170 miles in horse drawn carriages from Gunahbaad to Mashhad. In winter it takes longer as roads are covered with snow. As horses cannot travel on snow satisfactorily, mail is carried on ponies from Birjand to Mashhad. Government stamps are affixed on postal articles. Telegram charges for foreign countries are like in India. Within Iran it is 5 Karan for 10 words. Telegrams are accepted in Farsi and English languages. There are no printed forms for sending telegrams. We have to write it on plain paper and sign.
There are three main hospitals here. One is being mantained with the money of Imam Raza (A.S.) which is called “Daarus Shifaa-e-Hazrat”, in which all and specially Zawwars are treated. The other is run by the British Government and is in charge of a Parsi doctor, Mrs. Damri MD. Daily 300 patients are treated free of charge in this hospital. In addition to these two, there is an American missionary hospital in which fees are charged for treatment. Then there is a small free hospital of an Iranian which is called Shifaa Khana-e-Muntasariya.
There are no hotels here like in Bombay and in other big cities, with lodging, boarding and dining facilities, but restaurants serve cooked food including rice, mutton, brinjal, kabab, seekh etc. Bread is sold in separate shops where tandoori (tanoor) chappati rotis are also available. These are different from those in Bombay. Usually, these are one to one and a half feet wide and 5 to 6 feet long. Comparative rate is half that of Bombay.
There are innumerable samll roads in the city in addition to the big ones. All kinds of shops are situated on the Baalaa (upper) as well as Paaeen (lower) Khayaabaan (roads). Both these main roads start from the two opposite gates of the Haram Sharif. There is an area called Arak. Mainly foreigners reside here. British and foreign consulates and British hospitals are also here. Post and telegraph departments, army camp and government ammunition godown is situated here.
Mashhad is the capital city of Iran’s Khorasaan District. It’s population is nearly one lack. Many nearby villages are dependant upon this city. Therefore the business was brisk. Main imports included tea, sugar, silk cloth, glassware, etc. The Silk and glassware came from Russia in large quantities. Sign boards on shops are more in Russian language and less in English. Amongst foreigners, Englishmen are very few, others are Russians, Armenians, Turks etc. Main trade is in the hands of the Iranians. In local produce, hand-woven silk, silken handkerchiefs and carpets are very famous. Exports include wool, fruits, silk carpets etc. Moreover warm cloth is also made with wool which is mainly used by poor people. Unfortunately industry in Iran is almost nil. Otherwise if an adventurous businessman ventures he can manufactures Jam, jelly, murabba etc. from the cheap and good fruits, thus adding to the wealth and progress of the country. In our country (India) such fruit based articles arrive from Armenia, Australia and England while this industry awaits development in our neighborhood.
Iran has an area of about 6 lack square miles. Yet it’s railway line is only 52 miles from Mirjawa to Duzdaab (Zahedaan) and 4 miles from Tehran to Shah Abdul-Azeem. Totally 52 miles long railway looks tiny in comparison with her neighboring country India. India’s area is thrice that of Iran, that is, nearly 17 lack square miles and has a railway line 27,000 miles long. Fortunately the authorities have taken up this matter on hand. They have levied import duties on tea and sugar so that the money thus collected will be spent for railways. Now surveys are being made from Mohamara (Khorramshahr) to Tehran, Tehran to Mashhad and Mashhad to Duzdaab (Zahedaan). Survey is also being made at other places. Let us see when the future of Iran will get higher.

SOME ZIYARATS IN MASHHAD
1. Saiyad Ahmed Kabir (A.M). It is heard from some aalimedeen that some Sunnis carry his flag with pomp in India.
2. Janab Shaikh Bahauddin Aameli (A.M.) who was a famous Mujtahid. He is buried near the new Sahn of Hazrat at Aivaan-e-Tilaa Naasiri. His father and his son are also buried there.
3. Hurre Aameli. He is also a well known aalim and is also buried opposite the above place in the old Sahn.
4. There is a big graveyard (Qabrastaan) behind the old Sahn. It is called Qatlagaah. The reason behind this name can be known only there. Originally there was a very green garden and a house. In that house, there are three stones named Sang-e-Mahag, Sang-e-Mahmood and Sang-e-Muraad. The Mujawar says that when Hazrat Imam Raza was poisoned he was feeling much pain so he took a stone and started moving it upon his belly. Whenever that stone was being pressed that particular side of that stone became soft as kneaded flour. Therefore there are several depressions on the surface of that stone.
5. Besides what is written about the above three stones there is also a white stone. The Mujawar says that when a devout religious person named Haji Nazar Ali was returning from his Haj Pilgrimage, he saw that stone somewhere in possession of a Jew. He purchased it at a high price, built a house and placed the stone therein. He also willed that he should be buried therein. He is buried there. It is well known that in order to show a miracle to the Jews, Hazrat Ali (A.S.) had put his foot in goats milk, that froze and became like a marble stone. His footprint is also there.
6. There is a dome (Qubbah) at the other end of the graveyard. Hazrat’s brother is buried there. He is called Sultan Mohammed Sahib. People go there too for Ziyarat.
7. The grave of Hazrat’s special Khadim Khwaaja Abussalt who remained with Hazrat till the end, is at a distance of 12 miles from Mashhad. The fare of horse carriage to reach there is 15 Karaans.
8. At a distance of 4 miles from Mashhad is a big vast tomb of Khwaaja Rabia and there is a big garden having mostly rose plants. He was a great vali (friend of Allah). The fare of the horse carriage to reach here is eight Karaans.

RETURN JOURNEY
We stayed in Mashhad-e-Muqadas for about 35 days in complete comfort. Temperature those days was 85’ Fahrenheit in the day and 70’ Fahrenheit at night, even though it was summer. On Sunday, September 12, 1926 we started from Mashhad for Bombay. Even though we were there for so much time we were not willing to leave this glorious place. At last with a heavy heart, we began our return journey. As long as it was visible we did not move our eyes away from the shining gold dome. The cars and lorries used earlier were again hired for Rupees 975. The average per passenger came upto Rupees 78. Lengthy descriptions will not be necessary now as we would be passing through the same places described earlier. We went past Sharifabaad after 2 hours of travelling. After 15 minutes we came across 2 paths, one going to Duzdaab (Zahedan) and the other going to Tehran. A canal flows here beneath trees where travellers sit for rest if need be. We sat here for lunch. Temperature then was 72’ Fahrenheit. We left the place at 2:30 P.M. and by evening we had entered hilly terrain. Subsequently temperature fell to 65’ Fahrenheit. Roads were good so we entered Turbat-e-Hayderi at 8:00 P.M. We proceeded without halt here and reached Meena at 10:00 P.M. dined and slept. Next morning (September 13, 1926) at 7:00 A.M. We left for Gunabaad and reached there at 10:15 A.M. There was no water between Meena and Gunabaad. Here we rested for half an hour by a flowing and reached Khizri at 1:00 P.M. After our meal at 2:15 P.M., we started for Kaaen which we crossed at 5:00 P.M., driving through the mountains we arrived at Sandeh at 9:00 P.M. The temperature was 55’ Fahrenheit but pleasant. We purchased some eggs here, priced at 1 Karaan for 20 eggs (4 annas Indian).
The next morning we left at 7:30 A.M. and reached Birjand at 10:30 A.M.. We purchased from a restaurant rice, curry, curd, etc., lunched and reached Sardbeesha at 5:30 P.M..
We camped at Sardbeesha overnight. As said earlier this village is situated in a valley. Temperature was 70’ Fahrenheit in the evening and it came down to 52’ Fahrenheit next morning. After breakfast we took cooked meals with us and started at 5:30 A.M. on Wednesday and by 11:00 we reached Sushp.
Here pomegranates were also available at the rate of one Mun (mound) for one Karaan. We bought three muns. They were very tasty. We ate and restarted at 1:00 when the temperature was 35’ Fahrenheit. We passed by Khunak at 3:00 P.M.. Here we collected water from a flowing stream. We arrived at Sufedabad after Maghrib. We ate and left the same night because hereafter we enter an arid region which is preferably crossed during night or in the cool of dawn. Moreover, since the train from Duzdaab (Zahedan) was to leave on Saturday morning, we were eager to reach Duzdaab (Zahedan) by Thursday morning so that we may purchase the needed food for the onward journey. We had also to obtain Iranian and Britsih Government stamps on our passports. We reached Hurmuk at 2:00 A.M., rested and then restarted to arrive at Duzdaab (Zahedan) at 7:15 A.M on 16/9/1926. As before, we had informed the station master (before leaving Mashhad) for arranging a special bogie. Since such bogies are not always available, they were sent from Quetta which was 450 miles away. We obtained the signature of the Britsih Consul on our passports, arranged for eatables etc. and started at 11:30 Saturday morning. Trains for Quetta leave twice a week from here on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
We arrived at Spezand at two next afternoon. We got our compartment disconnected for being joined with the waiting train bound for Hyderabad. The train started at 00:25. On Monday, September 20, 1926 at 1:00 P.M. we reached Hyderabad.
We had to change trains here and to take the narrow gauge train of the Marwad line. As this train was to leave at 3:00 we had two hours at our disposal. Accomodation was already reserved in advance. We kept our luggage in the train and went to the town for the Ziyarat of Hazrat Ali’s (A.S.) Qadamgaah (footprints). On foot it took us 5 to 7 minutes. We recited ziyarat. There are in all 7 very clear impressions of Hazrat’s two feet, two knees, two palms and forehead on the marble like hard stone. After returning from there we called for bread, rice, kabab, etc. from a restaurant outside the station and ate. The train started as per schedule.water should be collected either from here or from Mirpur Khaas station which comes after about one and a half hour, as there is a shortage of water upto Marwad.
We arrived Maarwaad at 10:00 A.M. on Tuesday, 21/9/1926 and by 8:00 P.M. we reached Ahmedabad. Gujrat Mail bound for Bombay leaves Ahmedabad at 8:50 P.M. Our seats were reserved.
Alhamdolillah. Safe and sound, we arrived at Bombay’s Grant Road Station at 7:15 in the morning of Wednesday 22nd of September 1926. The total journey was about 57 days. During this period by the grace of Allah, we did not face any trouble. Now comfort is increasing day by day. So it is hoped that brothers will, henceforth, benefit by the Ziyarat of Shah-e-Khorasaan in greater numbers – Inshaallah.

Short Desrcription Of The Journey And Necessary Articles
Train Journey

If anyone wishes to reach Duzdaab (Zahedan) from Bombay directly without a change they could get a separate compartment buying at least 16 tickets. This compartment travels on a broad gauge from Delhi and reaches Duzdaab (Zahedan) via Bhatinda, Samsara, Rohari and Spezand (Quetta). A ticket for this route costs Rs. 15/- more than the Ahmedabad route and takes one more day. It should be remembered that luggage must always be kept with us. It must not be sent to the luggage van. Otherwise we have to waste four days till another train comes, if it is not tranferred properly at the stations of change and that creates problems.

ARTICLES NEEDED FOR THE JOURNEY
1. 4 pairs of clothes
2. 2 pairs of socks
3. 1 bedding
4. 1 woollen blanket
5. 1 pillow
6. 1 pair of goggles
7. 1 battery torch
8. 1 lantern
9. 2 thick jute waterbags (mashq)
10. 1 primus stove
11. 1 mariner’s compass (qiblanuma)
12. Food to last upto Duzdaab (Zahedan)
The first 6 items are per person. The last 6 are for the full unit of travellers.
Utensils
1. Cup-saucers, kettles
2. 2 spoons, 5 tapila (broadmouthed cooking vessels)
3. 1 tiffen box
4. 2 tins of jam
5. Tin cutter
6. Knife
7. Rope
8. Adequate number of milk powder boxes
9. Medicines like balm, chlorodine, castor oil and quinine
10. Essence of peppermint
By purchasing a third class ticket, one can perform this Ziyarat at an expense of Rupees 500/- per person.

ZIYAARAT OF HAZRAT IMAM RAZA (A.S)
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VALIYALLAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA HUJJATALLAAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA NOORALLAAHE FEE ZULUMATIL ARZ
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA AMOODAD DEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA AADAM SEFVATILLAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA NOOHIN NABIYYIILAAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA IBRAAHEEM KHALEELILLAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA ISMAAEEL ZABEEHILLAAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA MOOSA KAAEEMILLAAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA EESAA ROOHILLAAH
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA MOHAMMADIBNE ABDILLAH, KHAATAMIN NABIYYEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA AMEERIL MOAMINEEN ALI IBNE ABITALIBIN VALIALLAHE VA VASIYE RABBIL AALEMEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA FAATIMATAZ ZAHRAA SAIYADATE NISAAIL AALAMEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESAL HASANE VAL HUSAINE SAIYYADEIYA SHABAABE AHLIL JANNATE AJMAEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA ALIYYIBNIL HUSAIN ZAINAL AABEDEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA MOHAMMADIBNE ALIYYIN BAAQERE I’LMIL AVVALEENA VAL AAKHIREEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA JA’FAR IBENE MOHAMMADINIS SAADIQIS SIDDEQIL BARRIL AMEEN
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA YAA VAARESA ABILHASNE MOOSABNE JA’FARIL KAAZIMIL HALEEM
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA AIYUHAS SIDDEEQUSH SHAHEEDUSE SAEEDUL MAZLOOMUL MAQTOOL
ASSALAAMO ALAIKA AIYUHAL VASIYYUL BARRUTTAQI
ASH HADU ANNA KAA AQAMTAS SALAAT VA AATAITUZ ZAKAAT VA AMARAT BIL MA’ROOF VA NAHAITAANIL MUNKARE VA ABADTALLAH HATTAA ATAKAL YAQEEN ASSALAAMO ALAIK YAA ABAL HASAN VA RAHMATULLAAHVA BARAKAATOH INNAHUHAMEEDUM MAJEED
VALA’NATULLAAHE UMMATAN ASSAAT ASASSAZ ZULME VAL JAVRE VAL BID’ATE ALAIKUM AHLAL BAIT.